Time needed: 14 hours
Here are the steps I used to stencil the large back wall in my home office:
Next I had to decide on colors. I already knew that I wanted to do white + the aqua color that I had already painted my office nook, but I had to choose which one would be the base color and which color I would stencil over top.
As I looked at different examples of stenciled walls, I realized that with the stencil pattern I had chosen, if I did the white as my base and the aqua color on top, I would have a more bold wall. And if I did an aqua base with a white stencil over it, my design would be a little more muted. Since I tend to be a bit scared of bold pattern, I decided to go with the latter combination.
The exact colors I used were Behr Marquee Cameo White and Sherwin Williams Rainwashed. (But I had Rainwashed color matched in the Behr Marquee paint since it is my favorite!)
To make sure that my stencil pattern would be completely straight, Donnie helped me draw a perfectly straight vertical line down the middle of the wall with a pencil.
That way I could set my first row of stenciling right against that line. Then all of the rest of my rows would be built upon that one, ensuring that they would all be straight.
To place the stencil the very first time, I lined it up with the pencil line that Donnie had drawn. I also placed it right up against the ceiling.
My stencil set came with a coordinating ceiling stencil. So if I started my design at ceiling level, I would be able to go back in with the smaller stencil later and easily fill in the little gap at the top. (You’ll see what I mean in a minute!)
I just used painter’s tape to adhere my stencil to the wall. Some of the instructions and tutorials I read recommended using a spray adhesive on the back of the stencil as well. But that sounded messy to me, so I used tape by itself. I didn’t have any trouble.
I think one of the biggest keys to getting a nice, clean stencil line is to use very, very little paint. I opted to use a mini foam roller to apply most of the paint.
So I would load my roller and roll off some of the paint in my paint tray. Then I’d do a roll or two on a paper towel. This would ensure I had only a very thin layer of paint on my roller.
I would then roll a coat of paint over my stencil. Often, since there was so little paint on my roller, I would have to refill my roller 2-3 times and go over the stencil again to make sure it was completely filled in.
I found that doing several of these thin coats one right over the other worked well. It really minimized bleeding under the stencil.
At the top, bottom, and side edges of the stencil, there are registration marks that help make sure that the stencil is lined up in the correct position. I would typically finish rolling my paint and remove the stencil right away.
Then I’d let the paint dry for a minute or two and use the registration marks to position the stencil again.
Since I was using very thin coats of paint, they dried quickly. I didn’t have to wait long in between stencils.
I also staggered the placement of the stencil, which allowed me to go more quickly. So, for example, while the paint for the stencil in the below photo was drying, I would remove the stencil and place it beside the top row. I’d roll the paint over that one, and then by the time I was finished there, I could move the stencil back down to the bottom. By then, the first stencil I had done was dry and ready to go.
The main part of the wall was a little time consuming, but the process was pretty straightforward– tape the stencil, paint, move the stencil, paint again, repeat. Eventually, though, that easier section was done, and it was time to tackle the edges.
As I mentioned previously, my stencil came with a smaller piece that was designed to help fill in the gap along the ceiling line. I actually ended up trimming down the top of the ceiling stencil by about 1/4″ or so. This allowed me to place it right up against the ceiling rather than it rolling up onto the ceiling, which would make it harder to stencil.
For the smaller pieces like the ceiling and the edges, I used a stencil brush like the one below rather than a roller because it was easier to manipulate in the smaller spaces.
If there was a spot that was really teeny tiny, I kept a small paintbrush handy and used that to fill in when necessary.
My stencil didn’t end up hitting the edges of my wall exactly. I had to do a bit of maneuvering to stencil each end and the very bottom of my wall.
I would first tape the edge of the opposite wall where I didn’t want the paint to seep. Then I would just let the stencil bend into the corner and press it in with my fingers on one hand and stencil with the other hand.
The one piece of the wall that perplexed me a bit was a little two-inch strip between the door molding and the wall. There was no way to bend the stencil to make it fit neatly in that space. So I ended up cutting a two-inch strip out of my stencil once the rest of the wall was complete and using that to fill in the gap.
(If you were planning on using your stencil somewhere else and didn’t want to cut it, one of my Instagram friends suggested making a photocopy of the stencil and cutting that, perhaps out of cardstock, which I thought was a great idea!)
As you can see, I taped up both the door frame and the wall so I wouldn’t get paint on them, then taped my little piece of stencil into the gap, and just filled in with paint like I had on the other edges.
I pulled the tape away, and my wall was done! Yippee!
I did go in and end up touching up a few spots with paint where the lines weren’t totally crisp. It still is not 100% perfect, but the pattern is pretty forgiving, so I didn’t have to be too nit-picky with it.
I would say all in all I spent about 14 total hours stenciling. (And I tend to be kind of slow because I’m a perfectionist, so other people would probably be faster than me!)
If you’d like to master stenciling with pro results, this post will get you there! It’s filled with tips on how to stencil for exceptional results, plus where to find stencils, how to clean and store them, favorite stencil supplies and SO much more! Get ready to learn all about stenciling because you’re about to become a stencil pro after reading this post!
Some of the most asked questions I get about stenciling are:
“What are your favourite stencil brushes?”
“How do I stencil without paint bleed?”
“What’s the best way to clean stencils?”
“Which paint do you use on fabric?”
… and so much more.
So, today I’m going several steps further. This massive, LONG overdue post will showcase everything you need to know about stenciling.
How to stencil, my fav supplies, how to store, how to clean, what to make, where to purchase these stencils, and more!
Ready to learn big today? Here we go!
This post contains some Amazon affiliate links in which I earn a small percentage from qualifying purchases through these links, at no extra cost to you. Thank-you for helping to support my blog!
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About these stencils
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First off, this post features my own line of stencils.
I personally design Funky Junk’s Old Sign Stencils. They are market sign themed and patterned stencils made from a high quality 10 mil mylar.
I’m a 20 year sign maker by trade. So when I started creating old signs for my own home, readers desired to make the same designs. Hence… the stencils were born! So now you can make the signs I make too!
View and learn more about the stencils HERE
(paint shelf tutorial is HERE)
Basic must-get stencil supplies
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As with any hobby, you’ll want to stock some basic supplies.
I suggest to gather these stenciling things up, and have them all nearby before you start. There is nothing quite like having to run alllllll the way upstairs, while juggling four invaluable stencil brushes threatening to dry up on you…
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good lighting – natural light is best
a work table
a big roll of paper to protect surfaces
something flat-ish to pour paint into
something to off load paint from the brush (rag or plank of wood)
container of water
stencil brush
other specialty paint brushes
a box of plastic sandwich bags (to store wet paint brushes)
plastic wrap (for wet paint brushes or to cover trays)
high density sponge roller – useful for glass
masking tape
measuring tape and pencil
scissors – helpful to reduce the footprint of the outer stencil in tight areas
stencil spray adhesive – optional
paint of choice (I use Fusion Mineral Paint)
stencil storage
storage for paint supplies nearby
How to stencil
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Stencilling is actually very easy. However in order to achieve exceptional results, a little practice comes into play.
The most common issue is bleeding underneath the stencil. This is due to too much paint applied.
The key for super sharp lines is using VERY little paint. Your stencil brush once fully loaded should feel dry-to-the-touch.
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1. Pour the paint onto a flat surface of choice.
2. Dip the stencil brush into the paint, then off-load most paint onto a rag, leaving your brush dry-to-the-touch.
3. Position the stencil into place with masking tape, then tap or swirl paint through stencil to create the desired effect.
Learn more about How to stencil HERE
Favorite stencil brush tips
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Collecting a variety of quality stencil brushes has become somewhat of a hobby! However, the better the brush, the better the outcome.
Some paint brushes aren’t even specifically stencil brushes. Pictured above is actually a quality wax brush, perfect for working with large stencils.
I suggest to collect all sizes and types of stencil brushes.
And choose dome-tipped stencil brushes if you can find them. The paint goes on so beautifully thanks to the slightly rounded edges.
My two personal favorite stenciling brushes are:
For small stencils – dome tipped
For Large stencils – Staalmeester #3600 wax brush (shown above)
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Wrap an elastic band around a fatter wax brush
Find many kinds of brushes HERE
(Potting Shed crate tutorial is HERE)
(Potting Shed crate tutorial is HERE)
Other paint brushes
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Before you begin stenciling, you may desire to coat your surface first. For this reason, I stock several different paint brushes.
The most important part is quality. If you purchase quality paint brushes, your work just turns out better, and the brush lasts longer.
Tip: An all synthetic brush may offer the least amount of brush strokes.
Find many kinds of quality paint brushes HERE
(Potting Shed sign tutorial is HERE)
Masking tape
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Masking tape is needed to hold your stencil in place. For this reason, a lower grade masking tape is all that’s really needed.
But a good quality painter’s masking tape also comes in handy for creating painting lines that won’t allow the paint to bleed.
So I suggest to stock both quality painter’s tape and a budget friendly masking tape so you’re ready for anything.
View lots of masking tape choices HERE
(Lunch window sign tutorial is HERE)
DIY Paint of choice
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Nearly any paint can be used for stencilling. However, the more opaque, the less paint you will require since it will offer better coverage.
What paint you chose can also depend on what surface you are painting.
Wood, glass, fabric, indoor, outdoor all play a part in choosing.
Purchase from Fusion’s website HERE and save 10%!
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I personally use Fusion Mineral Paint today. It’s super durable, requires no added top coat, and is a DIY paint suitable for most surfaces, including wood, furniture, fabric, glass and metal. It’s also outdoor durable.
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Shop for Fusion Mineral Paint in my Amazon store HERE
Purchase from Fusion’s website HERE and save 10%!
Locate Fusion from a local retailer HERE
Visit Buffalo Check checkers board tutorial HERE
Should stencils be cleaned?
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Personally, I don’t generally clean my stencils.
However for photography purposes, I do stock 2 of each. One to use, and one for photos.
I use to clean stencils when I first started stencilling, but I found the more cleaning they got, the more risk of damage they came in contact with.
So instead of cleaning stencils, I run my finger against the cut edges to remove any paint build-up, then let them air dry.
However, I do have some tips if you wish to clean yours on a regular basis, because they sure are prettier when they are clean!
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Purchase Simple Green cleaner from HERE (which is what I use and love)
Spray adhesive – yes or no?
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I personally don’t use stencil adhesive, although I did when I first started stenciling.
Spray adhesive coats the back of the stencil, creating a sticky surface to reduce the possibility of paint bleeding underneath.
However, with a little practice, you will find you don’t require the stencil adhesive. The key to sharp images with stenciling is all about removing most of the paint off your brush until it feels dry.
However if you’d like to try stencil adhesive, here’s how to use it:
How to use stencil spray adhesive
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Shop for stencil adhesive spray HERE
How to store stencils
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What’s the best way to store stencils? Horizontal, vertical or otherwise?
I’d say it’s dependent on how often you reach for stencils, how visual you like them to be, and what kind of space you have.
I myself prefer to hang stencils so they are in full view and easy to grab.
Hanging stencils also reduces the risk of them getting damaged or tangled up with other stencils.
Stencil storage rack made from 2x4s
This is my current stencil storage rack, made very simply out of 2x4s. It’s super strong, and holds a LOT of stencils!
Here’s a few other ways I’ve stored stencils:
View some other stencil storage ideas on Amazon HERE
Visit this paint station HERE
Paint and brush storage ideas
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I find it handy to have paint and brushes stored near the stencils. Therefore, I created what I call a paint station. It’s basically a work table with two shelves, housing all my paint and brush supplies.
Here’s how I’ve built a few different paint storage stations over the years:
Easy pallet-styled shelf (in my workshop)
Repurposed cupboard to antiques paint cart (above)
Reclaimed wood paint shelf
Visit my paint studio with LOADS of salvaged storage ideas
A tour of my workshop and all the storage ideas
Salvage styled work stations
Update: Adjustable paint shelves made from reclaimed wood
These are my current paint shelves that are made from reclaimed wood and fully adjustable. Best paint storage I’ve ever had to-date!
Learn stenciling from these stencil videos
If you’re a visual learner, most of our stencil projects HERE include short video clips.
Or you can VISIT THIS POST which shares many stencil videos in one spot for easy access.
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Click above to watch one of many short stencil videos!
View the Garden Label post HERE
Stencil projects to make
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Desire some stencil ideas on what to make? Boy can I help there!
Click below to view all my own stencil projects:
One page access / listed by stencils alphabetically
By project posts / listed newest to oldest
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Share your projects
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Join this Facebook group, What I made with Old Sign Stencils, so you can share YOUR creations with the rest of us in the group!
Hope to see you there! 🙂
Subscribe to hear the latest stencil news
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Would you like a heads up when there’s some new stencil designs released or new projects to make?
Subscribe to daily blog posts HERE
Sign up to subscribe to Old Signs Newsletter HERE
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Whew. That was some post. I think I got it all.
But if this post didn’t answer all about stencilling for you, feel free to leave questions in comments below. I will answer them, and possibly even add an FAQ to this post if needed.
Thanks for your visit, and happy stencilling to all!
Visit the stencils store HERE
Find all my stencil projects HERE