Peterson, Ashlee
DES 40A
11/23/2021
Professor Cogdell
Raw Materials – Eyeshadow Palette
I. Introduction To Eyeshadow Palette Raw Materials
Makeup palettes in the twenty first century are often made of raw materials sourced from places unknown to the everyday consumer. A few key ingredients across all eyeshadow palettes are silica, mica, and talc, and caprylic/capric triglyceride. These ingredients must be sourced as a raw material or synthesized inorganically in a lab. Regardless of acquisition methodology, both collection processes end in environmental damage. Raw material acquisition affects the manufacturing, re-use ability, recycle-ability, and waste management of eyeshadow palettes globally. Along with this, the energy, re-distribution, and transportation of eyeshadow is widely affected by the global resourcing of eyeshadow palette minerals, which is usually raw material acquisition via mining and secondhand synthetic processing, which causes its own slew of waste and energy production. Throughout this paper I will attempt to address this life cycle of the main ingredients in the Naked 3 eyeshadow palette: talc, mica, silica, caprylic/capric triglyceride, and paperboard packaging; from ground collection to finished product.
II. Collection of Primary Raw Materials
Studying the acquisition of raw materials in eyeshadow palette production is an important and unknown aspect of the beauty world. Many makeup companies are extremely focused on life-form ethicality, from animal testing to labor sourcing, but few have shed light on the unethical practices used to source the materials needed for beauty brands everywhere. Primary raw materials, or materials taken directly from the earth, have been collected by cosmetic companies without foresight on environmental damage for years. With green chemistry and sustainability showing up on the average consumer’s radar, we must analyze the damage done by raw material sourcing. Although I cannot cover all raw materials used in cosmetics, due to scope, size, and lack of research available, a few very important key players (mica powder and talc) are well researched.
A. Mica powder is a huge aspect of cosmetic eyeshadow. Responsible for the shimmers and gleaming colors in makeup, this component is found nearly everywhere. Mica mining, however, is extremely detrimental to the environment. In the article Environmental Effects of Sand and Gravel Mining on Land and Soil…, by Ako et al., in the Journal of Geosciences and Geomatics, it was concluded that mica mines caused a reduction of farm and grazing lands, a destruction of landscape, deforestation, water pollution, and air pollution. This is as much as I could find on the environmental impacts of mining mica. Unfortunately, the data to represent this information has not yet been properly researched and published. This same narrative can be found in many other naturally mined cosmetics, spoken about below. Talc, however, is not under-researched at all.
B. Talc is a white, naturally occurring, powdery mineral used in cosmetics for absorbing moisture, and improving the feel of shadow products. It is prevalent across nearly all eyeshadows and therefore is a good material to evaluate. Talc is collected via mining practices all over the world, but for the sake of research availability, I will be referencing a talc plant in Italy- named Luzenac Val Chisone who have undergone an ecological balance analysis and published a paper on their quantified results. According to V. Bandino, G.L. Baldo, et al., who wrote Ecobalance of Talc Mineral Production, Talc is commonly collected via “selective blasting and cement filling”. Table 1, under the figures section, references the minimal materials needed to mine talc. When looking it over, the most expensive cost to mining 1 ton of talc is reported to be 4.6 liters of diesel. There are five main off gassed compounds during the mining process, with the heaviest emission being 36.8 grams of Carbon Monoxide per 1 ton of exploded mineral (table 2). In the bigger picture, producing 1 ton of talc has a cost of: 1070 megajoules in energy usage, and over 16,152 grams of CO2 (Table 5). These are significant numbers, as on average in America alone, 45,000 tons of talc were used in cosmetics (Zazenski R., Ashton W.H., et al. 219). This totals out to roughly 726,840,000 grams of off gassed CO2 from solely America’s Talc consumption (Figure 1). This same equation can be repeated with the values on table 5 to give an accurate portrayal of other forms of environmental effects of refined talc.
All of this may lead one to believe that synthetic material sourcing is a great alternative to the natural damage caused by raw material acquisition. This is a fair assumption, and as we move toward total depletion of natural resources, it may be our only option. Let’s explore the current synthetic resources used in eyeshadow palettes today.
III. Secondary Raw Materials (Synthesized Materials)
Secondary synthesized materials have their own impact on the environment in the process of eyeshadow creation. Synthetic Silica and Caprylic/capric triglyceride are specifically well researched and will be discussed in this paper.
A. Synthetic Silica is a common ingredient in eyeshadow. It can be produced in a multitude of ways, but “in brief, sodium carbonate powder is allowed to react with quartz sand at high temperatures to form sodium silicate, which is then treated with sulfuric acid to precipitate silica.” (Joglekar S., Kharkar R., et al. 492) This common method can cause environmental damage due to consumption of quartz sand, which is a naturally occurring non-renewable resource. Recently, however, many silica producers have begun to investigate using rice husk ash (RHA) as an alternative resource for silica production. RHA is a by-product in rice milling processes and can cause environmental build-up as a waste product with no use (Kumar A., Sengupta B., et al. 47). RHA has since developed into a renewed resource for mineral replacement in cements and steels, and it is now beginning its life as a secondary synthetization source for amorphous silica. Using various lab synthesizing processes, it is possible to recover over 90% of the silica contained in RHA (Shelke et al. 66). This narrative of creating a necessary chemical ingredient out of a waste resource is extremely common as demand continues to outgrow supply throughout the world. Makeup is no exception to this, but hopefully as we continue to renew materials, we can find long term solutions to our ongoing investigation into sustainable life cycles. When compared to the environmental impacts of naturally obtained silica though, RHA is an extremely ecofriendly alternative as it renews a secondary byproduct extremely effectively. The environmental impact of RHA synthesis is yet to be researched, as it is a new finding in the scientific community, and can be seen as in its infancy.
B. Caprylic/capric acid is a lauric oil derived from coconut or palm plants. Both coconut and palm plants have small amounts of caprylic acid naturally occurring in them, and therefore are greatly consumed for a small amount of final product. This makes caprylic acid manufacturing costly in both resources and time (Shilva, 102). On a greater scale, however, palm oil production has been shown to affect land, air quality, and animal biodiversity. (Carlson et al.). This makes Caprylic acid an overall poor material in the environmental sense, for its effects on earth are directionally inverse to its production value.
IV. Packaging Materials
A. Packaging is a huge aspect of the life cycle and energy cost of eyeshadow palette. L’Oréal, the parent company behind many eyeshadow palettes, is known for having high-end packaging made of plastics and mixed paperboard. When requested for comment on their packaging materials, they responded with the following statement: “We’re happy to confirm that our packaging is made of paperboard cartons made of recyclable materials.” No further information was given. While not perfect, paperboard packaging has been shown to create a “more environmentally friendly option than the plastic crate system in all studied impact categories.” according to Koskela et al., who compared cardboard and plastic delivery systems to assess their individual environmental impact throughout their life cycle. Unfortunately, paperboard is not used by all companies, so the impacts of plastic must also be considered. The effects of plastic packaging in the makeup industry was not widely available, as plastic use effects are generalized outside of the cosmetics bubble. As we all know, plastics are extremely damaging as a non-degrading material that can be toxic and dangerous to all ecosystems and life on earth. Outside the bounds of purely cosmetics, plastics are infamous. Unfortunately, the scope of plastic damage is so wide that information on just cosmetics was unavailable.
V. Conclusion
A. Raw material acquisition affects the manufacturing, re-use ability, recycle-ability, and waste management of eyeshadow palettes globally. Along with this, the energy, re-distribution, and transportation of eyeshadow is widely affected by the global resourcing of eyeshadow palette minerals, which is usually raw material acquisition via mining and secondhand synthetic processing. In this paper, I have successfully led an understanding of raw and synthetic material acquisition effects for eyeshadow palettes through accurate and detailed analysis of three key ingredients shared by most eyeshadows: talc, silica, mica, capric acid, and paperboard/plastic packaging. While much is still unresearched, as consumers we can help this process by adequately supporting brands who focus on environmental impact- from start to finish for the entire designs’ life cycle.
VI. Closing Notes
A. Unfortunately, although I spent much of my time researching this topic, many of the sources I found for various components of eyeshadow were unreliable, under-researched, or simply non-existent. I found that most of the research done on makeup ingredients has been in relation to the health and safety of humans and the toxicology of makeup, instead of the environmental sourcing, manufacturing, or ecological effects of these raw materials. I have chosen to speak on the most researched life cycle minerals for accuracy of information and ability to cite. Some sources in my bibliography were used for general research and understanding but not directly quoted within this paper.
VII. Figures
A. Table 2 and Table 5 are sourced from V. Bandino, G.L. Baldo.
Figure 1. CO2 equivalent for 1 ton of refined talc
Raw Materials Bibliography
Common cosmetic ingredient / Useful resources info
A step forward on sustainability in the cosmetics industry: A review
Bom, S., et al. "A step forward on sustainability in the cosmetics industry: A review." Journal of Cleaner Production 225 (2019): 270-290.
Sustainability: how the cosmetics industry is greening up
Sahota, Amarjit, ed. Sustainability: how the cosmetics industry is greening up. John Wiley & Sons, 2014.
Talc Info
Trace metals in cosmetic facial talcum powders marketed in Nigeria
Nnorom, I. C. "Trace metals in cosmetic facial talcum powders marketed in Nigeria." Toxicological & Environmental Chemistry 93.6 (2011): 1135-1148.
Raw materials sourcing for manufacturing in Nigeria. (Book, 2009)
Raw Materials Sourcing for Manufacturing in Nigeria. Nigeria, Raw Materials Research and Development Council, 1990.
· Badino, V., et al. ECOBALANCE OF TALC MINERAL PRODUCTION. p. 6.
Talc: Occurrence, Characterization, and Consumer Applications
Zazenski, R., et al. “Talc: Occurrence, Characterization, and Consumer Applications.” Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology, vol. 21, no. 2, Apr. 1995, pp. 218–29. DOI.org (Crossref), https://doi.org/10.1006/rtph.1995.1032.
Mica Info
Silica Info
Caprylic Acid Info
· Carbon emissions from forest conversion by Kalimantan oil palm plantations
o Carlson, Kimberly M., et al. “Carbon Emissions from Forest Conversion by Kalimantan Oil Palm Plantations.” Nature Climate Change, vol. 3, no. 3, Mar. 2013, pp. 283–87. www.nature.com, https://doi.org/10.1038/nclimate1702.
· Assessing eco-innovations in green chemistry: Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of a cosmetic product with a bio-based ingredient
o Secchi, Michela, et al. “Assessing Eco-Innovations in Green Chemistry: Life Cycle Assessment (LCA) of a Cosmetic Product with a Bio-Based Ingredient.” Journal of Cleaner Production, vol. 129, Aug. 2016, pp. 269–81. ScienceDirect, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2016.04.073.
· Environmental Life Cycle Assessment of Caproic Acid Recovery from Brewery Waste Streams
o Shrestha - Advancing Chain Elongation Technology for Medium C.Pdf. https://deepblue.lib.umich.edu/bitstream/handle/2027.42/168053/shilva_1.pdf?sequence=1#page=121. Accessed 21 Nov. 2021.
Packaging Info
· Reusable Plastic Crate or Recyclable Cardboard Box?
o Reusable Plastic Crate or Recyclable Cardboard Box? A Comparison of Two Delivery Systems | Elsevier Enhanced Reader. https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2014.01.045. Accessed 21 Nov. 2021.
Tin/Zinc/Other Metals Info
Toxic metals contained in cosmetics: A status report
Bocca, Beatrice, et al. "Toxic metals contained in cosmetics: a status report." Regulatory Toxicology and Pharmacology 68.3 (2014): 447-467.
"Eyeshadow" redirects here. For the song by No Devotion, see Permanence (album)
An eye shadow palette with a wide variety of neutral and vibrant colors A mainly purple eye shadow look, with a brown shade blended in on the top.Eye shadow (or eyeshadow) is a cosmetic applied primarily to the eyelids to attract attention to the wearer's eyes, making them stand out or look more attractive.[1] Eye shadow can also be applied under the eyes, on the cheeks, or to brow bones.
Civilizations around the world use eye shadow predominantly on women but also occasionally on men. In Western society, it is seen as a feminine cosmetic, even when used by men.[citation needed] In Gothic fashion, black or similarly dark-colored eye shadow and other types of eye makeup are popular among both men and women.[citation needed] In ancient Egypt, it was customarily used by both men and women[2] Kohl, an ancient eye cosmetic, played a prominent role in various cultures and religious practices.[3]
The use of eye shadow attempts to replicate the natural eyelid coloration that some women exhibit due to a natural contrasting pigmentation on their eyelids.[citation needed] Natural eye shadow can range anywhere from a glossy shine on one's eyelids, to a pinkish tone, or even a silver look.[4]
Use
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Eyes with heavy gold eye shadow Video demonstrating application of eye shadow.Eye shadow can add depth and dimension to one's eyes, complement one's eye color, make one's eyes appear larger, or simply draw attention to the eyes. Eye shadow comes in many different colors and textures. It is usually made from a powder but can also be found in liquid, pencil, cream, or mousse form. Eye shadow can be applied in a wide variety of ways depending upon the desired look and the formulation. Typically application is done using fingers or brushes. The most important aspect of applying eye shadow, and makeup in general, is blending well. However, you must not forget to include a primer to limit the chances of creases in your eye shadow later.
To remove eye shadow, a commercial makeup remover can be utilized, though a rich face wash will usually remove all traces of color. Generally it is easy to remove, and simple water and soap can be used. Eye shadow, eyeliner, and mascara may also be removed using baby oil. There are also makeup wipes that can be used.
History
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Humans have used cosmetics for thousands of years. The earliest direct archeological evidence for eye makeup dates back to predynastic Egypt (c. 5000 – 4000 BCE). Traces of eye paints, most commonly malachite, a green mineral, and galena, a black mineral, as well as cosmetic palettes, pots and applicators have been found in burials from this period.[5][6]
Over the years many women have used burnt matches to intensify their eye makeup. Women would often dust rice powder on their faces to hide any imperfections or freckles.[citation needed] Eyeshadow or eye paint was very popular during the Victorian era (c. 1837 to c. 1901); less was more. The less eyeshadow one wore, the more respected one was.[citation needed]
Modern usage
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Earliest evidence of a commercial product called 'eye shadow' dates back to the 1910s in the United States. Cosmetics company founder Elizabeth Arden visited beauty salons in Paris in 1912, studying the products and techniques. In 1914 she introduced eye shadow to her own salons in the US.[7] Eye shadow was advertised 'Arden Eye Shadow' in newspapers as part of the Arden Venetian Preparations range of cosmetics in 1919.[8] The product was sold as 'Eye Sha Do' in 1922, but by the 1930s, eye shadow had become the common name used by Elizabeth Arden, Inc. and other cosmetic companies such as Helena Rubinstein Incorporated and Max Factor.[9][10]
Eye shadow has gone through many different phases, for example during the 1920s when smoky eyes were in trend or in the 1930s when people added many colors to their eyeshadow looks. Eye shadows of other finishes are sometimes on trend too, which include iridescent eye shadow, and duo chrome eye shadow.
Ingredients
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Eye shadows typically consist of four types of ingredients: base fillers, binders, slip, and preservatives.[11] In order to make eye shadow, there must be a balance between the fillers and binders.
Base fillers are usually minerals such as mica, talc or kaolin clay, which add bulk and texture to eye shadow. They make up about 30% of eye shadow powders and 25% of cream eye shadows. Mica absorbs moisture, gives the eye shadow shine and luster, and makes it opaque.[12] Mica powders, iron oxides and clays can give color pigments to eye shadows.[13]
Binders help eye shadow adhere and stay attached to skin. Eye shadows can have dry or liquid binders. Zinc and magnesium, which are both white powders, are commonly used as dry binders. Zinc also adds color and can be used to increase the thickness of the eyeshadow. Silicone, paraffin wax, mineral oil or vegetable oils may be used as liquid binders.
Slip allows eye shadow to glide across the skin smoothly. Products may use silica or nylon, which are fine, colorless powders. Other types of slip include dimethicone, boron nitride or bismuth oxychloride.
Preservatives help products stay bacteria free and extend their lifespan. Common preservatives in eye shadow are glycol and tocopherol.
Application
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Variety of eye shadow brushes. Different shapes and density for different types of application.Eye shadow is usually applied with brushes, sponges or fingers. Different brushes can be used for different application techniques and effects, such as packing on eye shadow, blending, smudging or smoking out eye shadow, or applying color with precision or applying color below the eye.
Flat brushes are typically used to pack eye shadow onto eyelids, while brushes with fluffy, tapered tips are used for blending eye shadows. Smaller brushes with dense or angled bristles are useful for precision work.
See also
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References
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