These days, beauty lovers are swiping more on their skin than serums and lotions. Technology has made its way into the skin care realm, and everyone from your aunt to your favorite celebrity is probably talking about red light therapy and at-home microcurrent facials.
The market for skin care devices—including masks, wands, and bars—is projected to grow from $5.02 billion in 2022 to $13.94 billion by 2032. At $100-plus, these tools are certainly an investment—but are they a good one? Ahead, dermatologists Dr. Azadeh Shirazi and Dr. Marisa Garshick discuss the merits and pitfalls of these devices and whether they’re really as good as in-office treatments.
“Skin care devices now offer cutting-edge technologies once only available in dermatology offices,” explains Shirazi. These devices employ microcurrents, LED photobiomodulation, and radiofrequency technologies to stimulate collagen production, treat acne, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles and scarring. However, the scientific merit of these devices is still in question.
Shirazi attributes the popularity of skin care gadgets to social media and the rise of interest in skin care that occurred during the pandemic. And, of course, the convenience factor of conducting your skin care treatments at home rather than a doctor’s office can’t be overstated. “These at-home devices are designed to be portable and user-friendly, allowing consumers to incorporate them into their at-home skin care routines,” adds Shirazi.
At-home skin care devices like the Solawave 4-in-1 Advanced Skincare Wand ($169), NuFace Trinity+ Starter Kit ($395), and the Dr. Dennis Gross DRx SpectraLite FaceWare Pro ($455) are relatively new to the market. As you’re shopping for one, you may notice words like “microcurrents” and “LED therapy.” Here’s what those terms mean—and what benefits they have to offer.
“Microcurrent devices use low levels of electrical current to stimulate facial muscles to help sculpt and lift the face,” Garshick says. “It is thought since microcurrent has been shown to help wound healing and reduce inflammation, it may also promote collagen and elastin production to help firm and tighten the skin, though more research is needed.” Microcurrent tech may also boost circulation, diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
NASA originally created red and blue light therapy to assist in healing and wound recovery.
Red wavelength light may soften wrinkles, stimulate collagen production, and boost circulation. “Red light therapy in LED masks works by photobiomodulation, a phenomenon where different components of our cells are activated by different wavelengths of light,” says Shirazi. “Red light therapy is like your morning coffee. It helps wake up your skin cells by activating the mitochondria, which is the powerhouse of our cells.” This stimulation helps your mitochondria go to work repairing your cells and helping them grow.
Blue light, meanwhile, may help clear your skin of acne by killing bacteria.
These skin care devices use radio frequency to stimulate collagen production. “If your main concern is skin tightening, then using a radiofrequency device to deliver thermal energy works best to tighten tissue,” says Shirazi.
While skin care devices show a lot of promise, many of them could benefit from a few more years of research. “In many ways, it is important to note that skin care tools and devices do not replace at-home skin care routine or in-office procedures,” says Garshick.
Another thing to note: Because you’ll be operating these devices without the help of a trained professional, it’s important to follow directions to a T, especially when your skin is getting acclimated to the new tool. For example, the Solawave 4-in-1 Advanced Skincare Wand instructions specifically state to start with five minutes of treatment three times a week to test how your epidermis will react.
“That said, it is best to avoid certain at-home devices that offer minimal benefits and may cause harm if used incorrectly such as pore vacuums and at-home microneedling kits for facial rejuvenation,” warns Garshick.
If taking care of your skin is a big part of your wellness routine, investing in one of these devices may be worth it for you. “Depending on the concern, it is possible there may be some temporary improvements as well as some long-term benefits with consistent use,” says Garshick. “For this reason, if you have the budget and want to consider incorporating these, it is reasonable. But in general, there may be greater benefits with in-office treatments.”
Both dermatologists recommend buying a device that has been clinically tested and cleared by the FDA. “Consulting with a dermatologist or skin care professional can also help determine the best skin care regimen, including the use of skin care devices, based on individual skin concerns and goals,” says Shirazi.
CNN
—Do you really need eye cream? What should you be doing about those dark spots? Skin care is often a guessing game of trying out products, crossing your fingers, and hoping they’re right for you. And unless you have a dermatologist on speed dial, it can be hard to get answers. That’s why we asked two top dermatologists to share everything you need to know to upgrade your routine and get glowing, healthy skin.
Your lineup varies between morning and night. In the morning, the ideal basics of skin care are “a gentle wash, an antioxidant serum, hydrating moisturizer, and sunscreen,” says Dr. Nava Greenfield, a dermatologist at Schweiger Dermatology Group in Brooklyn, NY. The antioxidant serum helps repair and defend skin against DNA damage throughout the day (read: it’s anti-aging). One splurge to consider: SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic ($166; dermstore.com) has a combination of vitamins C, E, and ferulic acid that work synergistically. (Too pricey? Many affordable anti-aging skin care products get high ratings.) At night, she recommends repeating your cleanse, treating skin with a topical retinol or retinoid—which speeds cell turnover and spurs collagen production—and following with moisturizer.
While there’s no hard and fast rule on how frequently you need to exfoliate — as it depends on the exfoliant, how powerful it is, and what else you’re using — you definitely need to do it, says Dr. Deanne Robinson, a dermatologist at Modern Dermatology of Connecticut in Westport, CT. “As a general rule of thumb, I would advise one to two times per week,” she says. A glycolic acid-soaked pad, like BeautyRx Skincare Tetrafoliant 10% Peel Pads ($70; amazon.com), takes seconds to apply. Cane + Austin Acne Treatment Pad ($60; amazon.com) pairs glycolic and salicylic acids, making it a good pick for acne-prone skin.
There are a few important tweaks for your evening routine. At night, “cleanser may need to include a makeup remover in it,” says Greenfield. “And moisturizers should be thicker and more hydrating at night.” Once a week, you should also use a face mask at night. Try Korres Hydra-Biome Probiotic Superdose Face Mask ($49; sephora.com), which is rich in skin-calming probiotics, or Peach & Lily Overnight Star Sleeping Mask ($43; ulta.com), which can brighten skin as you sleep.
Short answer? Sort of. “It does not in the sense that most people talk about it — for example, chocolate doesn’t cause acne,” says Robinson. “However, foods with a high glycemic index, such as refined sugar, can increase hormone levels in the body, leading to inflammation, and exacerbate acne.” So if you break out after eating a late-night plate of fries, it’s not because of the grease. It may be because potatoes are high on the glycemic index scale. (Dealing with a breakout? Mighty Patch Original ($12.50; amazon.com) helps draws out the gunk.
Obviously, you should see a dermatologist at least once a year for a skin cancer screening. (Right? Right.) Outside of that, seek out a pro if you have any skin concern, says Greenfield, whether it’s a new rash, spot, bump, or even to have a conversation about creating the best anti-aging regimen.
So you’ve got your skin care routine down to an art — for your face. But you should pay just as much attention to your hands, neck and chest, where the signs of aging are also visible. Apply sunscreen in the morning, extend your treatments and moisturizer down to your chest, and rub excess product onto the backs of your hands. Really, sunscreen should go everywhere. “The back of the legs is the most common place for melanoma on a woman’s body, so it’s important to use care with SPF coverage here,” says Robinson. Try a moisturizing body sunscreen like Australian Gold Botanical SPF 50 Mineral Sunscreen Lotion ($14.53; amazon.com).
The best time to start addressing wrinkles is once you see them in the mirror. “Usually, this is noticeable in your late 20s,” says Greenfield. But you can take preventive measures, like diligent sunscreen use, way before that — like now. It’s the most effective and affordable anti-aging product out there.
Not all dark spots are created equal. The best treatment depends on what caused the spot in the first place. “Some are classic sun spots, which we can treat with lasers, while others might be associated with melasma, a hormonally triggered hyperpigmentation, which we’re more likely to treat with peels and topicals — as lasers can potentially exacerbate it,” says Robinson. A vitamin C serum, like Pure BioDerm Antioxidant Super Serum ($59; amazon.com) or Herbal Dynamics Beauty Vitamin C 25% Rejuvenating Serum ($22; amazon.com), goes a long way to even out skin tone and lighten pigmentation. “Last but not least, always use a broad spectrum sunscreen of at least SPF 30 to avoid getting dark spots while you’re treating any existing ones,” she adds.
“Generally speaking, yes,” says Robinson. Retinol, or vitamin A, is loved by dermatologists for its ability to speed skin cell turnover and boost collagen production. (A retinoid denotes prescription strength, while retinol is over the counter.) The downside: It can be harsh on skin, causing flaking and dryness. InstaNatural’s Retinol Serum ($18.97; amazon.com) offsets any dryness with hydrating hyaluronic acid. If that’s still too harsh for your skin, try a naturally derived alternative called bakuchiol, which is gentler but has retinol-like properties. A good one: Olehenriksen Goodnight Glow Retin-ALT Sleeping Crème ($55; sephora.com).
Go for mineral, says Greenfield. “Mineral sunscreens protect against a larger range of ultraviolet light and are more efficacious,” she explains. “Chemical sunscreens can be absorbed in the body and can also cause an irritant or allergic reaction on the skin.” You can’t go wrong with EltaMD UV Daily Facial Sunscreen Broad-Spectrum SPF 40 ($28.50; amazon.com), which feels lightweight and blends in seamlessly. If your skin is on the oily side, try La Roche-Posay Anthelios Ultra-Light Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50 ($33.50; amazon.com), since it has a mattifying effect.
No, this doesn’t actually happen — but there is an exception. “Skin can build up a tolerance to retinol, but not a tolerance against their effectiveness,” Robinson says. In fact, jumping around to different products can do more harm than good, so try to stick with it.
Yes, you definitely need a separate eye cream. “The skin around the eyes is thinner and needs more support than other skin on the face,” says Greenfield. She recommends looking for one with retinol as well as antioxidants like vitamin C for anti-aging. Glow Recipe’s Avocado Melt Retinol Eye Sleeping Mask ($42; sephora.com) checks all the boxes, as does Kiehl’s Youth Dose Eye Treatment ($33.15; nordstrom.com).
Note: The prices above reflect the retailers’ listed prices at the time of publication.