Have you found the right oil seal for your application? The next step is a precise and error-free assembly, so that the oil seal is fitted without being damaged. If you are replacing an existing oil seal, you must first disassemble it with the same care and precision. In this article, you will read all about the different steps of an appropriate (dis)assembly process that contributes to optimal operation within the application.
Successful assembly first requires careful preparation. By following a few simple steps, you significantly increase the chances of a flawless assembly.
When it involves a repair, you must first remove the old oil seal. To remove an oil seal, it is important to use the right tools to avoid damaging the shaft and bore. The best solution is therefore to pull out the oil seal without having to completely dismantle the shaft. This can be done by making a few holes in the oil seal with an awl and a hammer. You can then use a hook to pull the oil seal out of its seat. You could also screw some screws into the holes and then slowly pull out the screws to extract the oil seal from its housing. Be careful not to damage the shaft or housing in the process.
If the shaft or housing gets damaged, it must be repaired. If you replace only the oil seal, but the shaft or bore remain damaged, then there is a chance of premature failure or leakage. You can easily repair the shaft, for example using an SKF Speedi-Sleeve.
By first finding out the dimensions of the inner and outer diameters and the height of the bore, you have all the data for the correct size of the oil seal. Of course, the oil seal must also be able to withstand the pressure, temperature and medium it is exposed to within the seal during the manufacturing process. You can read more about this in our oil seal selection guide.
Before installing the oil seal, it is essential that the oil seal, shaft and bore are not damaged. So, ensure that the surfaces the oil seal comes in contact with do not have any sharp points or burrs. The sealing lip is fragile, so any minor damage to it can cause leakage. Also, make sure the oil seal is clean. Even a small amount of dirt can cause a leak. Therefore, never use a pre-used oil seal for the assembly.
Assembling the oil seals is only possible with the right assembly tools. Due to the high risk of damage during assembly, it is important that you have tools with which you can work carefully. A bearing fitting tool set is ideal.
Because the inner diameter of the oil seal must be stretched during assembly, it is necessary for the shaft to possess a ramped edge. The angle at which the ramped taper should be chamfered is 30° a 50°. If a flange or keyway is present on the shaft, it is best to use a bushing. The bore should also have a chamfer of 30° over at least 1 mm on the ramped side. Be sure to round off the edges properly in the process.
A final step in preparation for assembly is to lubricate the shaft, sealing lip and bore with sufficient oil. This will allow the oil seal to slide more easily over the shaft and prevent dry running after the first rotation. Always use oil or grease that is compatible with the oil seal material. In addition, when sliding over the shaft, the oil seal comes into contact with the keyway, threads and grooves. By taping or covering the shaft at the location of these irregularities with oil-soaked paper, the oil seal can be mounted without damage to the sealing lip.
If you have prepared the assembly properly, then you are already largely on your way to a successful installation. The assembly of the oil seal itself is not complex. It is, of course, important that it is done properly in view of the longevity and reliability of the seal.
When you start the actual installation make sure that the oil seal is always facing the right direction. So, not facing outwards, but always with the spring facing the side of the medium to be sealed. The oil seal must then be pressed into the bore. Use appropriate tools, such as a bearing fitting tool set, to ensure that this is done evenly. The oil seal must never be forcefully hammered into the bore.
It is quite common for a groove to develop at the sealing lip at some point due to long-term use. As a result, the new oil seal no longer fits and seals properly. It is not strictly necessary to replace or repair the entire shaft. Take a closer look at the dimensions first. It may be possible to fit with a slightly narrower or wider oil seal next to the groove. Alternatively, using the Speedi-Sleeve repair kit, repair the running surface under the seal.
Below is a list of other problems you may encounter when fitting oil seals.
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Stijn de Cnop
Product Manager of Sealing & Polymer Technology
Product Manager of Sealing & Polymer Technology
One of the main principles of power transmission is consistent lubrication. Shaft seals play a hugely important role in this. Imagine a situation involving a shaft-mount reducer – electric motor prime mover, driven by belts, motion controlled by a torque arm – with an improperly seated seal. A blown-out input shaft seal is a nightmare situation, necessitating an entire breakdown and reassembly, not to mention re-aligning and re-tensioning the belts.
The oil seal is our first line of defense in regards to keeping lubrication inside the reducer. It might also be described as the last line of defense – keeping contaminants outside the reducer where they belong. The average seal is incredibly simple in design – made up of a case, a lip or lips, and frequently a garter spring. Of course, some are exponentially more intricate and are manufactured with unusual materials, but the majority are straightforward.
The care taken during the installation process will pay off by allowing the seal to work quietly and operate efficiently behind the scenes of your application.
Before you begin the installation process for any power transmission component, the first goal is making sure everything is clean and free of any material flaws such as nicks, burrs, scratches, dents, et cetera. Most of these components have very tight tolerances, so maintaining this accuracy is important in their performance. This is especially critical for oil seals because of their function.
Begin with a thorough inspection of all involved surfaces: shaft sealing surface and housing bore, seal lip(s), and outside diameter. Maintaining the integrity of the sealing lips is “Priority 1″. The slightest tear or nick can develop into a more significant issue during operation.
Over time, the seal lip(s) will wear a shallow groove into the shafting due to the pressure the seal imposes upon it. Visible scoring on the shaft indicates a genuine possibility that the seal will not perform as well as intended. The potential for lubricants leaking out and particulates working their way through the seal drastically increases when placed over a worn location.
There are a few options to remedy this situation:
Which option is best? This decision is left entirely to you. Whatever solution you choose, the seal needs a proper fit to function.
With the application cleaned and the components ready, you’ll begin your installation.
Many seals come with a garter spring, found within the backside of the seal. It provides contracting pressure against the sealing surface. Making sure the spring seats correctly within the seal is an excellent first step.
Next, apply a small amount of grease to the seal lip(s) and the area of the shaft in contact with the seal. When using a double-lip seal, fill the small cavity between the two lips with grease as well. This both protects the lips during initial installation and break-in, and also acts as another barrier keeping contaminants out. When installing rubber-coated seals, apply lubricant to the outside diameter as well. This will help prevent the seal from rebounding or backing out from its mounting place.
Orient your seal the same way as the initial install. The sealing lip should face the lubricant that requires sealing. The second lip on a double lip oil seal is intended as a dust lip. The seal must be installed at a 90°, or perpendicularly, to both the shaft and housing bore. This is an issue in cases where the housing does not have a counterbore or shoulder the seal can seat up against.
When a seal is angularly misaligned – or cocked on the shaft – an irreversible process begins. Excessive pressure on one section of the seal, when not installed properly, can cause the spring to become dislodged or the seal to heat up and become brittle through excessive wear, both leading to a premature failure.
In situations where the shaft has splines or an integral gear on the end, you’ll want to take precautions. These gears and splines often have very sharp edges that are quite detrimental to the seal’s integrity. You may use an installation sleeve that will allow the seal to slide past these hazards undamaged.
The last step involves the actual pressing-in of the seal. There are tools and tool kits available that can help with seal installation. Their biggest benefit is that they apply a very uniform force to the seal case, eliminating the possibility of the seal seating in any way other than flush.
If these specific tools aren’t available, it’s entirely possible to correctly seat an oil seal in its housing using a hammer. Ideally, this hammer will be plastic or rubber due to it’s more forgiving nature. Using this and a strike plate that covers the entire seal will lend you accuracy while driving it in. The downside to this method is the inability to drive the seal any further than the strike plate will allow.
Proper techniques and diligence during oil seal installation will result in what seems like an unremarkable situation – a component holding its lubrication. When something you’ve installed works effectively and quietly, you know you’ve done it right.